Fashion Ethics – Is Vegan Leather A Good Idea?
At first I thought, what the heck is vegan leather? In the past it was more commonly known as pleather, or imitation leather, so it is nothing new. The problem with pleather is that it is made out of plastic, or oil based fossil fuels. In addition, it is not biodegradable. There is nothing vegan or natural about it. Who eats plastic? How about a vegan pleather lasagna? Hmmm.
As far as wearing pleather, since it is plastic, it does not breathe, and will stick to you in the heat. It will also crack in the cold. Growing up in freezing cold winters, I recall a comical incident as a kid with an older cousin, who was wearing a pleather skirt. We were waiting in sub-zero temperature for the school bus for at least twenty minutes. When she got on the bus and sat down, her stiff and frozen plastic skirt cracked right in half!
Wrapping ourselves in plastic does not help regulate core temperature. Imitation leather quickly ends up in the landfills, and takes forever to break down. It does not breathe well as outerwear, and does not make for long-lasting, comfortable shoes and boots. Go to any thrift store and you will see a wall of pleather purses purchased on impulse, and discarded just as quickly. Why? Because no matter how you dress it up or try to rename it – pleather is just as tacky today as it was in the seventies.
In addition to being non biodegradable in landfills, it does not make its way into many vintage collections, because it does not age well. It often gets small cracks in the surface over time, followed by a peeling and flaking of the tiny plastic paint-like particles.
Although I have never been a big fan of fur, I do think it is ethical to use the hide of an animal that was going to die anyway. It is a practical way to increase its value, if it is used as a food by-product. When animals are raised specifically for their hides, it becomes ethically a little more grey.
Perhaps the biggest takeaway for us to consider when trying to create a more environmentally sensitive world, is in the need for the reduction of waste.
For a long time, vintage fur was considered ethical to buy and wear. In many ways I agree, since the item is already in existence. Should we really destroy and waste beautiful things that have stood the test of time? I think it is important to preserve them, so those animals did not die in vain. In reality, there are ethical grey zones in all manufactured products. This includes how they were made, how the workers are treated, how the animals are treated, what chemicals are used, what kind of extraction is involved, what kind of environmental impact is involved, life cycle of a product, what conflicts surround the product, etc. etc
Even if everyone stops wearing fur and leather, it does not change the fact that we have been wearing fur and leather since the beginning of time. We cannot eradicate our history and heritage when it comes to what we wore. After all, the outfit is the presentation for so many entrances, photographs and iconic looks from the different eras.
But at the same time – who would go to a public event wearing a full length mink coat these days? At one time, making an entrance with a glamorous full length mink coat – was considered the envy of the masses. Now it is seen as gaudy, garish, and insensitive. But they still need them for Hollywood movies because there is nothing that can truly emulate the real thing.
If no one is going to buy the beautiful vintage fur and leather anymore, I do think fur coats in good condition should be sent to poor northern communities, where the winters are very cold. There is nothing warmer than real fur.
As far as substituting other materials, I think it is better to go the more natural route. I read that certain designers are experimenting with everything from corn husks to pineapple leaves, looking for ways to bond the materials into a natural material for shoes. Ideas like this are more aptly called vegan leather, since the materials are predominantly vegan. Maybe one day we will be wearing shoes from coconut shells!
In summary, as far as pleather is concerned – I have secretly mocked it ever since I witnessed my cousins pleather skirt crack in half many years ago. I bet her gold plastique skirt is still sitting in a landfill somewhere. Pleather does not age well. Leather will last a very long time, if it is taken care of. I would far rather wear a vintage leather coat from the seventies than a pleather one. From a practical perspective, fur and leather will keep you warm and dry, just as it kept the animal warm and dry for its lifetime.
When it comes to emotions and the love of animals, I know for certain that many farmers love their cows. It may sound corny, but it is true. Like humans, animals do not live forever. They have a certain role to play. I believe they should dwell in peaceful pastures, and be treated with kindness, regardless of what they are used for.
In my opinion, from practical, ethical, waste reduction perspectives, pleather is out. It is especially wasteful if used in large garments such as coats. At least with purses and shoes, it is far less plastic, than what is used in a coat.
I would venture to say that leather used as a byproduct of the meat industry, is totally fine, unless of course you don’t eat meat, and don’t want to wear leather. In addition, the tanning and dying of the leather should be done with vegetable dyes and non-toxic natural products, as opposed to the use of chromium.
Canada churns out lots of leather products, mostly using cowhide. Cowhide is a durable leather with a strong natural grain. Cowhide is good in wind, rain and even snowy conditions. If we have to abandon the use of so much leather, I think leather boots should be the last to go. Leather footwear conforms to your feet, and can’t be beat.
I also think it should be okay to preserve and take care of leather garments, and then resell them in the vintage marketplace, so they do not go to waste. I do not think pleather should be a substitute for leather for many reasons – or for any reason. It is important to have these conversations in this day and age of environmental awareness, so designers get off the vegan leather trend wagon.
I believe in natural fibres, and have always gravitated toward things made of silk, wool, cotton, linen, and flax. The natural fabrics will stay alive for a hundred years or more – and if they do end up discarded, they turn back into soil. Most importantly, they retain the intrinsic elements of their natural beauty. Imitation leather does not retain much of anything. Renaming it vegan leather, is little more than a trendy misnomer.
Textile research and development should focus on the pineapple leaves, hemp, corn husks, and other durable options for the creation of green earth clothing. At least natural textiles will go back to the earth from where they came, without polluting the ecosystem for a hundred years or more, like plastic does.
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