Cleaning Antique Lace & Other Delicate Textiles

My love for vintage and antique textiles does not include any formal education or degrees, therefore I do a fair bit of research to help make up for it. If not for life circumstances, I may have pursued post-secondary education in arts, culture and the history of fashion. However, so much education is online anyway, so I might as well just keep researching and learning. Learning is lifelong – especially when it comes to things from the past.

To some extent we carry certain passions and aptitudes in our blood lines. Our great grandmother, who raised her family on a farm in northern Sweden was a professional seamstress. She had twelve children, and in pictures, looks as prim and put together as can be. Our grandmother had a spinning wheel and loved to spin. It was her zen time. Our mother also loved to sew, and had a strong creative streak.

So here I am with all this collection of vintage textiles. I don’t buy drapes, quilts, table cloths, or any large textiles anymore – but I still love to prowl around, and go to places where I can marvel at the most impressive vintage textiles.

When it comes to cleanliness and stains, I avoid anything with issues unless I can clean it right away. The few things with stains of unknown origin, I keep separate and put away, until I figure out how to deal with them.

The first thing to do is to simply use plain water. Sometimes a superficial stain can simply be rinsed out. Or use a bit of mild detergent with tepid water. The next step is to soak it. The initial steps should be to clean the item without the use of any harsh chemicals. 

One of the good things about antique lace is that it can be immersed in water, whereas many other textiles cannot be safely washed. Certain velvets, silks with many colours, brocades, etc. cannot be washed. 

Over the years I have made mistakes and ruined a few things. Recently I listed a top from Carsley’s of Canada, which is from the late 1800’s. It has some historical significance in that Carsley’s created the first mail order catalogue in Canadian history, and was the forerunner of the high-end fashion district in Montreal.

The lace on the upper arms of the Carsely’s top has yellowing from perspiration. It has been wet cleaned and UV treated but those stains are still there. Although I have not followed the antique lace treatment guidelines yet, I may do so, and will take before and after pictures to show if it worked.

I have read about many textile cleaning solutions. From bleach, to lemon juice and salt, sunlight, baking soda, vinegar – you name it. But all of these compounds have chemical properties which cannot be taken lightly, or at the very least, must be taken with a grain of salt.

The best advice comes from https://reallyhandmade.com/how-to-clean-antique-lace-and-other-delicate-fibers/

The next thing on my list is to order or find Orvus Quilt Soap. The chemical name for it is sodium lauryl sulfate. As the above link explains, it is often used to shampoo animals. The neutral PH increases the permeability and facilitates a penetration into the fabric that is not damaging or toxic. It is a wet cleaning method.

The most important aspect of Internet research, or any learning for that matter, is to sift through the mass of information, and find what is least toxic and damaging to the textile, since preservation is the goal. To me, the advice regarding the Orvus Quilt Soap, is the best option and makes the most sense.

Now that I have found something to safely clean antique lace and antique garments that can be immersed in water – I will try it and report back.